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台灣也產巧克力  奪得世界大獎超級棒

全球正風行的bean to bar巧克力風潮,台灣在幾年前也開始流行,到了去年,由於有巧克力界奧斯卡獎的世界巧克力大賽(ICA)亞太區移師台灣舉辦,且在年末世界決賽中表現亮眼,讓台灣巧克力知名度躍上頂峰,延燒至今年。九日風主廚楊豐旭說:「bean to bar指的是我們店家獲得各個產區、乾燥好的可可豆,用不同的烘焙條件,調整成想要呈現的風味,經過機器破碎、風選、精煉,可以將可可豆碎研磨碾製成可可膏,在依我們的喜好,加入糖跟其他風味。」而bean to bar與傳統認知的巧克力最大的不同,在於商業大廠僅採購已經研磨好的巧克力再加工,部分巧克力成分是拆解析出後,再重新依口感、風味等考量重新組合甚至以其他成分組合而成,所以bean to bar的真義就是原豆、原成分,充分的展現可可產地的風味和特性,也因此bean to bar也和葡萄酒一般講究風土。

屏東因為緯度、氣候適合可可樹生長,成了全球少數的從產地到餐桌最短的可可產區之一,可可寶貝老闆陳瑞光說:「台灣產季一年大概有2季,一季是4~6月,一季是9~11月,這2個季節產量最多,像目前我們可可寶貝一次採收,大概就3百到5百公斤的果莢,換算成乾豆,大概15:1,也就是15公斤的果莢,有1公斤的乾豆。」

去年,台灣bean to bar業者在世界巧克力大賽中表現亮眼,福灣巧克力的70% 台灣九號雙重發酵粗磨巧克力(330元),這款巧克力在去年奪下亞太區和全球決賽金牌,把製作巧克力中最難的發酵過程重複2次,獨門的技術,讓巧克力有濃重的發酵酸,紅酒和紅醋栗般的酸澀感,凸顯了台灣可可的獨特風情。

另外,九日風的牛蒡(1190元/3之1)是加入了台灣食材的巧克力,使用的是進口可可豆。楊豐旭說:「牛蒡巧克力選擇的是哥倫比亞產取的可可豆,因為這個產區可可豆,通常比較帶有堅果的調性,且有一些椰子的香氣,我們覺得跟牛蒡搭起來,是最適合。」苦中回甘的牛蒡味,讓尾韻充滿了變化。

另外,JADE LI Chocolatier 的Dark66 (380元)在亞洲區比賽取得多重金牌的巧克力,強調以純台灣可可豆製作,濃烈的櫻桃酸味和滑順的口感,雖然需要事先預訂才製作,麻煩些卻很值得。

情人節即將來臨,愛情人之餘,也來愛台灣一下吧。(黃翎翔/綜合報導)

更多「美食搜查線」內容,請點此:http://bit.ly/2GOqTAv

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